Someone will read this post and ask themselves, “Why is this guy writing about this swill?” Or, “Aren’t the 80′s on the phone asking for their cologne back?” Depending on your point of view, this is a scent you will love as part of your wardrobe or one that you’ll find completely repugnant and far out of character with current tastes. Kouros indeed inspires strong feelings and very little middle ground between.
However, there are some points on which most can agree: Masculine. Strong. Extreme longevity (good or bad). Animalic. Sensual. Easy to overdo. Then we easily reach the criticisms and more subjective opinions, and many of those criticisms resemble the same points of agreement. Add the words “dirty”, ”pissy”, and “territory marking” occasionally and you’ve likely rounded out a decent list of the adjectives for Kouros.
But since this a review, I’d like to keep this as neutral, and that’s a tall order for something seemingly as larger-than-life as Kouros.
Yves Saint Laurent Kouros (1981)
Yves Saint-Laurent Kouros (1981): This is best described as an aromatic fougere, developed from an array of components that includes leather, woods, amber, musk, florals, fruit, spices, and some synthetics (aldehydes). To paint a more complete picture, let’s begin with the individual notes.
Kouros initiates with top notes of bergamot, artemisia (wormwood), clary sage, coriander, and the aldehydes noted above containing somewhat of a deep citrus content. The heart notes are unremarkable, and include carnation, patchouli, cinnamon, orris root, jasmine, vetiver and geranium. The base notes, however, tell the true story behind this scent: honey, leather, tonka bean, amber, musk, civet, oakmoss and vanilla.
Yes, I said civet. Before you view this with visions of cat-like animals marking their territory, the olfactory vision I’ll give you is that is a strong animalic influence. And yes, it is somewhat cat-like in an almost ‘pissy’ way until you let it settle into the background and recognize that it melds well into the other elements, such as the honey, leather, oakmoss and musk. Keep in mind that one of the descriptors for Kouros is animalic, another is masculine, and yet another is sensual. Setting aside the top and heart notes, the fragrance very quickly tends to focus into the base notes and lingers there for what will seem like days. The musk, leather, civet and amber notes tend to focus the attention into a very warm and sensual dry-down.
About Civet for a moment, Kouros is not the only fragrance that has used it. Shalimar and Chanel No. 5 have both used it in some form to enhance the scent in a specific way. This is not a unique applicaation by any means. Moreover, the story about $110/lb coffee beans that are the…well, ‘by-product’ of Civets eating very prime coffee berries is now legend, and those who’ve tasted it tells me that it has a very deep, earthy, and unique flavor. I’m obviously not among them.
Keep in mind that there are both natural and synthetic versions of civet used, both very similar in composition, and that a very minimal amount is included in the composition. Conversely, that little will seem to feel like a lot. With the wrong skin chemistry, it may feel oppressive, overbearing, and even suffocating. It’s not a fragrance for summer-wear as the warmth surrounding you will make this seem cloying. Longevity, as mentioned, is extreme — literally, it lingers until you’ve showered and applied something else. Strength in more than one way is a major facet of this scent. Sillage can also be overbearing and feel like a vapor trail left behind you. Phrased another way, if you want to be found by sense of smell only, wear this and you’ll be trailed from your origin.
Now if it sounds as if I’ve thrashed Kouros against a wall, that isn’t quite the case. Very simply, it is a fragrance that others will notice once you’ve entered the room, positive or negative. Once it enters, it owns the room and you’re just along to watch. If you’re looking to impress the boss, don’t chance this. If you’re perhaps looking to interest someone who enjoys very sensual and animalic fragrances — almost to a primal urge level — Kouros will get attention. Beyond that…
Given all that’s been said afore, I should render some type of verdict. Kouros itself makes this a very tough call since it in no way lets those who partake be completely objective. As I said at the beginning, it arouses very strong and polarizing opinions. You will either love or hate it, there truly is no in between, and in rare cases will someone simply “adjust” to it.
Rating: 4/5. Usually, I’ll provide a recommendation at this point, although I’m refraining specifically from doing so only because I do have my own appreciation of the scent. As with most fragrances, it will react very specifically to skin chemistry, and becoming enticing or off-putting. My appreciation for it comes after many years of knowing the fragrance and its elements, as well as how it reacts with me. that same appreciation extends to very unique fragrances that have a history and story to tell, as well as their specific recognition as a stand-out or enduring scent. Given this is the 30th year of production, it’s interesting to find that Kouros has not noticeably changed.
Bottom-Line: Yes, this fragrance could be considered a “period-piece”, and it brings a certain nostalgic effect to those who recall its heyday in the early-to-mid-1980′s. That has changed little. It continues to retain a specific characteristic that — love or hate it — is unique, masculine, sensual and a bit untamed. It’s a nice wear for certain occasions. It’s not an every-day fragrance, even though it continues to be worthy of a place on the shelf for those times when you long to remember that place and time. Thirty years on, and Kouros is still the elephant in the room. You’re just along for the ride.
I'm Andrew Buck, the man behind the words. I'm a published author, project management practitioner for over 20 years, work on Wall Street, and am a fragrance aficionado. I've had a passion for fragrance for 30+ years, and enjoy trying scents and adding to an expanding and rotating collection for some time now. 
