One of the little secrets behind many warmer, fall/winter/spring fragrances, is a note called amber. Naturally occurring ambergris is the product of a whale and is both rare and expensive, whereas most normal ambers can be recreated in a lab without as many restrictions. The result of amber is a warn, glowing aroma that tends to be evoke a calming sensation and often offsets other sharper notes. In fragrance, it’s a sought after commodity for both colder weather scents and evening wear due to the depth of its note. When combined successfully as a heart/base note, it creates impact.
As one of his first Private Collection fragrances, Tom Ford introduced a scent called Amber Absolute. It is a fragrance that you will either cherish for its execution or revile for the emphasis on incense. Before I touch on the notes and overall reviews, I’ll provide a disclaimer: My wife finds the fragrance completely overbearing, and while reminding her slightly of the smoke of incense used during high mass, it also overwhelms her and becomes very cloying and irritating. Fair warning given to those who will read further.
Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute (2007): Immediately, let’s review the notes of the fragrance in no particular order. The heart is pure amber: warm, sticky, delicious. Everything you want amber to be. Incense, vanilla, labdanum, woods, and olibanum (frankincense). It’s little wonder that a comparison to Catholic High Mass isn’t far behind. To Ford’s credit, the focus is on not simply producing a pure amber scent, but on taking the heart of amber to a different stage and showing its possibilities in a fragrance that demonstrates its capability and actually appeals to both a male or female audience without sacrificing elements to do so.
Where many perfumers would have compromised to reach a male/female suitable fragrance, Ford’s noses have conceded nothing and achieved that goal. Whether you enjoy the outcome, however, is the same as with all fragrances: Purely a subjective experience.
Strength, due to its elements, is quite potent; a little goes a long way. Therefore, bathing in this will be very likely to either clear a room or announce your arrival minutes before you. Sillage is incredibly good, longevity is excellent (despite being an eau de parfum, it tends to have staying power that doesn’t go by the clock.
My own disclaimer: I’ve had this fragrance for nearly two years now, and as a testament to a little going a long way, my 50ml bottle is nearly full. One need not apply this heavily
Dry-down toward simple amber occurs after the first couple of hours where the incense warms and settles, the scant vanilla begins to meld with the amber, and the mixture becomes more subtle over time.
Overall Impressions: Since longevity and silage have been discussed above, all that is left is a question: Can an Amber become a larger-than-life experience versus a footnote within the heart of a fragrance? I believe Ford has answered the question well by the juxtaposition of incenses and woods and augment and accompany that base very well, provided your olfactory can handle the initial pungency of those elements.
Rating: 4.5/5. Highly recommended with caveats. Those caveats being clear above: Don’t try this if incense-laden themes are not to your liking. I would suggest sampling first and foremost, giving it a chance to unfold.
Bottom-line: Tom Ford has done very well by his Private Blend fragrance line. Amber Absolute is the oft forgotten player, and often overshadowed by newer additions and more popular entries. This is a fragrance one must use a chilly fall day to try, experience, and decide before concluding whether his great experiment in amber and incense is a worthwhile investment for them.





