Le Labo is a rarity among niche perfumers seeking to differentiate themselves from the crowd, something they do quite well and in several ways. One of those is a ‘just-in-time’ manufacturing model where your fragrance is bottled at the point of purchase. If you like, your bottle can be personalized within reason — your bottle can be labeled as a gift or with someone’s name if you so desire. In addition, they’ve brought in contributions from among the best noses in the industry to help with the formulation.
Even the naming convention is very straightforward. The name of the fragrance portrays the dominant theme, while the number signifies the total number of elements within the composition. Ergo, Vetiver 46 is a Vetiver-based fragrance with 46 individual components, most of which are not disclosed (every perfumer has their secrets, Le Labo is no different). And in certain circles, the release of a Le Labo scent is buzzworthy, since the release of Santal 33 created a two block line at their NoLiTa store in New York.
Their emphasis, as noted in their marketing materials and website, is on being original and different. And my experience with them began in that same way — by finding them in one of the niche retailers with whom they partner and beginning to sample the line.
Le Labo Vetiver 46 (2006): Vetiver 46 was originally created by Mark Buxton, best known for his work with Comme des Garcons, and the comparisons are obvious and many. Buxton’s work otherwise has been very prolific and created for a variety of houses, including his own brand to mixed reviews. For Le Labo, Buxton acted in the role of perfumer as he’s done for Givenchy and others.
Defining Vetiver 46 is an interesting experience as different elements come through during the life of the fragrance. While each of the notes wraps around vetiver, it all does so in a not-so-ordinary-vetiver way. Simply, if you’ve come expecting a very simple and ‘green’ scent normally associated to vetiver — some examples being those from Guerlain, Creed and others — you’ll come away with the impression that it’s much different and not like that core not at all. If you’ve sampled without that expectation, you won’t recognize this as a typical vetiver fragrance. While it’s there, it’s also augmented by incenses, Guiac, cedar, pepper, and labdanum. It defies that traditional ‘green’ association, instead replacing it with a much different vision of what can be done around the Tahitian Vetiver chosen.
The experience is not so “meadowy’ as it is a view of what might be done with various woods, incenses, spices, and other elements to create a much warmer focus. Where another vetiver would come across as very fresh, albeit somewhat non-descript from other formulations, Le Labo’s creation stands more as a counter-action. The result is a much deeper interpretation, one not normally associated with Vetiver but that feels quite natural nonetheless. I found it surprising, and asked the question: Is this really Vetiver at the core? There is a lot going on, and purists will sample this and possibly be dismissive for it lacking the green lightness normally interpreted by perfumers. The Le Labo version?
In a word: Intriguing. It remains a varied yet linear focus throughout, drawing gradually toward deeper notes as it reaches toward the base. Projection is moderate, longevity is excellent, and the concentration manages to avoid being a suffocating experience despite the longevity and sillage. Having worn Creed’s Original Vetiver for a while, which I associate with a Spring-to-early-Autumn experience, Le Labo Vetiver 46 was different, and tends to be both a stronger and warmer fragrance all around. Easily, this is a more Autumn-Winter-Spring fragrance, although the summer heat might also add something to the mix.
Rating: 4.5/5. Highly recommended.
Bottom-line: Yes, I give this a high recommendation for its ability to escape the common boundaries associated with a note. Warm, rich, deep, a frankincense type of experience. That needs to be qualified here. It’s both interesting and intriguing if you are a fan of a deeper and smokier aroma. As I mentioned above, if you’ve come to the experience expecting everyone else’s notion or rendition of Vetiver, you will come away with the feeling you’ve been duped. Otherwise, this is the type of fragrance that demonstrates innovation, creativity, and artistry by pushing the boundaries.
The mark of a great artist is in their ability to change and question our perceptions. Vetiver 46 certainly accomplished that goal.
I'm Andrew Buck, the man behind the words. I'm a published author, project management practitioner for over 20 years, work on Wall Street, and am a fragrance aficionado. I've had a passion for fragrance for 30+ years, and enjoy trying scents and adding to an expanding and rotating collection for some time now. 
