The use of Agarwood in fragrance-making — you may commonly know this as Oud, Aoud, or Oudh, all correct spellings — is not necessarily a new invention, but its popularity over the past several years has risen dramatically such that nearly every niche perfumer has created their own fragrance using it as a core component. Perhaps the most prolific of these is Montale Paris with an entire line of fragrances using Oud in various combinations, almost too many to count.
But to the subject at hand, with everyone trying their hand at using Oud in perfumery, there are bound to be good, bad, and downright strange or odd combinations that make their way to market. Le Labo is no exception in this crowd. The New York-based niche house has created what I’ll simply term as a very interesting rendition, the rest will be left for the review.
Le Labo Oud 27 (2009): By niche standards Oud 27 is a later entry to market, falling somewhere in the middle of the pack of recent releases. This is an interesting rendition primarily because of the notes used and how each projects.
In no particular breakdown, Oud 27 contains a heart of Oud (Agarwood), augmented by Virginia cedar, patchouli, guaiac wood, incense, saffron, and black pepper, along with about 20 other supplemental ingredients to yield its result (aldehydes, amber, vetiver, civette, musk, Rose Bulgari to name a few). This is an Oud for people who enjoy extremely strong, bold, and intense fragrances, and despite the mention of rose in the ingredient list, you’ll be more likely to notice the much more pungent aromas than the softer and more subtle ones.
Oud 27 is unique if nothing. It begins with a rather unsettling sour note that hits you on the top note layer, and lingers strongly for the first 30 minutes before it begins to settle. I’m unable to attribute this to any of the stated ingredients and it’s the same on paper as it is when it projects from skin application. With that as a forceful opening, it can be very offputting for that period of time or in confined spaces since the projection is very strong. Behind that top-layer is a very resinous, almost tarry and deep Oud fragrance that tends to be linear from that point onward. Once the sourness finally dissipates, you are left with an exceptionally masculine, smoky, hard-edged fragrance that is best described as ‘bombastic’. Longevity is incredible thanks to its 20% concentration (somewhere between an EDP and Perfume strength). ‘Strong’ as an adjective does not best describe the projection this scent exudes.
This is wood with a strong side of tar and resins. It has an “in-your-face” quality about it that is very unapologetic, and certain skin types that can handle a very strong scent can likely absorb this well. That said, despite its unisex description, this is not a fragrance I would at all ascribe as feminine, nor is it subtle. It is bold, unabashed, and can tend toward being earthy, dirty, raw and rather sensual all at once. By the time it has finally faded, it dries into its sweet phase and leaves the wearer with that as a result.
Oud 27 is, therefore, an odd duck of an Oud to describe. One part earthy, one part animalic/sexual, one part woody/smoky, and a smidgeon of sweetness, all bundled under a very pungent and sour opening. Where does that leave me as the reviewer? Perplexed? Intrigued? Exhausted? Repelled? Perhaps all of the above.
Rating: 3/5. Neutral recommendation. This is not a tamed, composed, or calming fragrance, but one that loudly announces your presence. For the wearer, it makes a bold statement about their comfort with a very daring and perhaps creative scent that takes a major risk. Most will either love its entirety or be entirely put off from its strength, it leaves very little middle ground for having no opinion at all. That said…
Bottom-Line: If you like a very bombastic Oud, this may be a good choice. For my personal taste, there are other Ouds I prefer to this, and the sourness in opening was a deal-breaker. They say that the first impression is lasting, and that simply is the first impression anyone may have toward Oud 27. Not being partial to sour sponges and wash cloths, it’s not an Oud fragrance I would suffer gladly.
I'm Andrew Buck, the man behind the words. I'm a published author, project management practitioner for over 20 years, work on Wall Street, and am a fragrance aficionado. I've had a passion for fragrance for 30+ years, and enjoy trying scents and adding to an expanding and rotating collection for some time now. 
