Following on my theme from yesterday — where I gave Tom Ford a decent kicking, and likely didn’t engender myself to my Tom Ford rep at Neiman’s — I’ll provide a quick sampling of what’s passed my olfactory palate of late and my own views toward it.
Creed “Spice and Wood” (2010) – This is a crisp, solid effort by Creed to celebrate its 250th anniversary. Spice and Wood is a blending of very rich apple, clove, mulling spices, rich cedars and woods to create an outcome that is both unisex in nature (my wife has decided she likes this immensely, despite her profile for florals) as well as a pleasant daily wearer. It’s certainly unique in that you will not yet smell it on the masses. The outlets that have obtained it so far are a limited selection of Neiman-Marcus’ around the US, Bergdorf’s in New York, and the Creed Boutique, which was about sold out of their allocation when I purchased mine earlier this month. Creed seems to be very tight-lipped about the distribution of this — including location and quantity — so for now, Bergdorf’s appears to be the best or only option. (250 ml atomizer, $550).
Creed “Windsor” (1936): What can I say that hasn’t already been said about a very unique scent with both depth and character, yet with enough subtlety to not scream boldness. I was very lucky to come by a signed copy of this in the 250 ml flacon size while a limited enough quantity was available, and the day I learned of its availability, I was picking up my copy within the hour for fear that another party would also learn of the availability. Its composition contains fragrant elements from all corners of the former British empire, yet done in a way that melds the notes together nicely. I’d mention quantity and price here, save for it being a now moot point. Incidentally, various Neiman Marcus outlets believe that they’re eventually getting shipments, though that continues to appear more unlikely as time passes. Look for this to appear on eBay, but caveat emptor is well advised.
Terre d’Hermes (2006): Surprisingly enough, this is not only one of the more affordable “pure perfumes” that I’ve discovered of late (100 ml @ $112), but it’s also of decent quality. If you’re seeking something trendy, young, and overly fresh in the top-note — basically, I’d say that if you’re under 35 — this will not be to your liking. Terre seems to possess a certain level of refinement and understated elegance that doesn’t enter a room leaving it smelling pungent from the experience. It remains fresh enough to be pleasant in its wearing and inoffensive to anyone around, with decent and not overdone sillage. Dry-down from heart to base note is consistent, and the aroma of cedar with a slight orange hint remains as the initial orange transforms. Very masculine, very refined, surprisingly elegant. Availability is widespread, so if you have the opportunity to get a sample vial, I’d recommend trying this.
I’ll divert for a moment and refer back to my prior posting on the Tom Ford Vanilla Pastry from yesterday, in that I have smelled Terre d’Hermes in the past, and decided to try it yet again while waiting for my wife in Nordstrom. I gave it a go and watched it unfold on my skin as the warmth opened it up. On one wrist, I was smelling the olfactory disaster that was Tobacco Vanille, which gathered a comment about smelling like cupcakes; the other held Terre. I asked my wife which she’d spend solid money to get, and she pointed to the wrist with the Hermes fragrance with no hesitation. I could only walkabout the remainder of the day after treating the Tom Ford wrist to a generous sampling of alcohol and a wiping rag to rid myself of the pungency of it.
Equipage by Hermes (1970): Why write about something from 40 years ago that isn’t much mentioned, hardly found, and barely a footnote? That’s the quandary that is Equipage. It’s an Eau de Toilette that has very good longevity and moderate sillage, yet a complex and refined character. It opens with a noticeable Rosewood and Bergamot flower, then gently fades into its more floral yet woody jasmine and pine, which will last all the way through the base notes of Tonka Bean, Patchouli and Vetiver. It’s vintage suggests something heavy and overpowering, a la Brut or Royal Copenhagen, yet it’s far more refined and elegant. This is not something easily pulled off by anyone who wasn’t around within a couple of years of JFK, although it’s not at all a barbershop scent or antique in nature. It remains available via Hermes only, and although semi-pricey for an EDT, the quality is there and worth the equity. (100 ml, $120; 50 ml, $80).
You’re probably reading the four choices, wondering to yourself: 2 relative newcomers, though both are skewed toward an older and less fresh/citrus top-note; 2 rarities. What is there in common?
The answer lies on how they’re worn and by whom. I’ve selected four that skew toward an older crowd and demonstrate a bit more elegant and understated. They also will not be found (mostly) at the fragrance counter at Macy’s, and some involve some searching to find the gems. Once found, I believe they’re worth the effort devoted to their quest, even though two aren’t quite rare in nature.
I'm Andrew Buck, the man behind the words. I'm a published author, project management practitioner for over 20 years, work on Wall Street, and am a fragrance aficionado. I've had a passion for fragrance for 30+ years, and enjoy trying scents and adding to an expanding and rotating collection for some time now. 
