Another one bites the dust… Perhaps it was inevitable, but we mourn the passing of two of the last Heritage Creed fragrances. Without much fanfare, Creed has discontinued production of both Royal English Leather (incidentally, Creed’s first fragrance) and Santal Imperial (the second eldest in Creed’s remaining line-up). Perhaps neither were exceptionally popular, perhaps this is the seventh generation Erwin Creed reshaping the house to be more relevant to a wider audience (or at least a younger one), or perhaps Creed could no longer justify the production runs or warrant the quality of ingredients. In any case, the loss is felt to enthusiasts and collectors alike who have surely gathered the last remaining bottles. Let the hoarding and bidding wars begin.

Also add to that number the 100ml size (for the moment) of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Tea for Two, the Olivia Giacobetti creation that captured quite a cult following. This one is peculiar since it remained a very critically acclaimed and popular scent to this day. If retiring the two heritage Creed fragrances made sense, this decision defies logic.

Can I get an A * Men? Apparently, you can get yet another addition to their collection. A * Men Pure Shot — described as a cool minty creation augmented with patchouli, spices and wood, is targeted for release shortly. Like most Thierry Mugler releases of late, this will be a ‘limited edition’ (perhaps to not compete directly with his mainstay fragrance), much like 2009′s Pure Malt.  Look for it to appear on shelves in early Spring.

Now you can smell like Jersey! At least that’s the pitch from United Scents of America, who released their first five fragrances named after states. New York, Texas, Florida, California and New Jersey are the debut releases.  New Jersey is described as a combination of hot buttered popcorn, cotton candy, vanilla, caramel, coconut, patchouli and peach, among other elements. We think they’ve been watching a few too many episodes of Jersey Shore. Having grown up in New Jersey, the pungency of rotting landfill against a bacdrop of petrochemical refining and auto exhaust would better resemble the “Garden State” than the boardwalk salt-water taffy described as their notes. Kudos for imagination, but maybe they needed to sit on the Turnpike for a little longer? (What exit?)

Related Posts:

• News & Updates: December 16, 2011
• Creed Royal Service: Review & First Impressions
• Best & Worst Fragrances of 2011
• Creed Royal Oud: Review
• News Updates 10/8/11: 19:45 EDT

• Is Amber the next Oud?
• If one were to describe the ‘Holy Grail’ of amber scents, what would that be?

In our end of year review of Bond No 9 New York Amber, we acknowledged that the fragrance was somewhat derivative in nature (the base was equivalent to Harrods Amber), and there are several parallels to their New York Oud. So while not quite the Holy Grail, it’s certainly in the same cathedral.

Speaking of which, Tom Ford’s Amber Absolute (recently discontinued) defines that cathedral through its use of incenses reminiscent of Catholic High Mass. As a fragrance, it’s wonderful though that depends on your appreciation of how the amber is augmented. As a pure amber, the element is a bit lost in the composition despite the warmth that note characteristically imbues. Two very different interpretations, but neither are quite the purist’s vision of a warm yet powdery-soft amber.

Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe (2003): This brings us to Marc-Antoine Corticchiato’s interpretation of Amber as viewed from a much different lens, a lens that views the warmth of amber as core to a very unique series of elements that work in very good harmony.  Picture a series of elements very similar to Cuir Ottoman, much borrowed from the 19th century scents of the Russian Empire, and including the juxtaposition of vodka and champagne, leather and deeply smoked tea, spices and honey, vanilla and incense, all working in unison to provide a transformative experience of those notes as they surround the amber core without becoming overpowering in themselves.

The result is very opulent, bubbly, rich and warm, yet sharp and intriguing. Had this simply been “warm-powdery amber”, it would lack something to provide additional character to the experience. Ergo, New York Amber’s infusion of rose, spices, woods and saffron (among other elements), and Amber Absolute’s liberal use of incense. Each adds something else to the ensemble cast, each changes or weaves a unqiueness around the fragrance.

As for Ambre Russe…

Given the search for perfection itself is an imperfect quest, Ambre Russe demonstrates what can be done around the warmth of an amber element while creating an inviting, engaging and sparkling experience. This would be the champagne and caviar of the amber set. The elements harmonize in such a unique way that once the vodka is added to the mixture, the result  against the warmth of the amber, tea, honey, leather, incense, vanilla, spices and rum, it simply creates a very sparkling chemistry. The rest is is simply a wonderful experience.  Neither cloying, nor heavy, definitely not as musky and sometimes suffocating as New York Amber can become, and balanced in its execution of sillage, projection and longevity. Ambre Russe is a very intimate experience in that its subtlety is its most appealing trait. The EdP strength is somewhat above average, longevity is excellent, and even over-application doesn’t result in an olfactory disaster.

Rating: 5/5. Highly recommended.

Bottom-line: I began this review expressing a search for the ‘Holy Grail’ of ambers, and asking the open question of whether amber is the next Oud. I believe I’ve answered one of those questions very clearly, the other…

Amber as an unaccompanied note will feel incomplete. Oud, without augmentation, will also not present as much other than a somewhat sour and medicinal resin. Neither would be complete without the correct accents in the proper proportion. It’s for that reason I won’t immediately agree that “Amber will be the next Oud”, although I won’t rule out that possibility. As for finding the Holy Grail, Ambre Russe is about as close to the intoxication of that experience as I’d dare want to come. It is exquisite.

Related Posts:

• Parfum d’Empire Cuir Ottoman: Review
• YSL Kouros (Review): “Love it or hate it, but it owns the room.”
• Bond No. 9 New York Amber (Review)
• Byredo Accord Oud (Review)
• Review of Montale Aoud Cuir d’Arabie

Ok, everyone who is an aficionado of fragrances has probably said this at some point in time. So have I. But there’s a few reasons why I’ve come to say this now, and it will seem odd and uncharacteristic for someone who writes a blog on niche perfumes even though it likely makes sense.

There are only so many fragrances we can actually use. I’m not unique, and I know there are others who have even larger collections than the 70-some bottles of fragrance I own, but in any given year, if I rotate each one to wear equally, I’d only be able to wear any one around 5 or 6 times. Adding anything new to the collection means that number of annual wears decreases.  Or my wife starts wearing some of them to bring down the stock.

We change, but our tastes don’t after a certain point. We all reach an age where we find that our tastes and preferences are well-formed and not subject to much change. We tend to be reluctant to trying things that are vastly different beyond a certain age. Our musical tastes don’t change much, our preference for certain products and brands are fairly set (in case you wonder why most advertising is designed to appeal to those under 25), and such is our preference for certain types of smells.

Some people have widely varying preferences, others are very tightly defined. A few can enjoy something for what the experience it provides. Writing a blog exposes us to a large variety of those experiences, and those run the gamut.  While I wouldn’t totally rule out liking or even loving something new, making a major purchase beyond something I personally own isn’t a wager even I would make.

Our skin chemistry and personal olfactory preferences influence our tastes.  I don’t think much more needs to be said here. Certain smells and notes can be appealing or off putting, depending on the person.  Combine that with a person’s skin chemistry, and a fragrance that smells beautiful on one person can prove quite different — and even horrid — on another. Some like vanilla, some chocolate, others strawberry. So it is with perfumes.

…And it all depends on what’s new. I know it’s early in the year for a prediction, but there hasn’t been much news on new major releases. Without speculating much on that, this may indicate that the industry is taking a wait and see approach on trends before releasing their next products. This leaves us to wonder: What is the next great trend?

The past couple of years have seen the trend toward the Oud bandwagon with niche houses producing scents using or including the note. It raises the question of whether Oud will become the next great mainstay or gradually fade in popularity.

The 90′s was the age of fresh/citrus/aquatics as a knee-jerk to the heavy, big fragrance bombs of the 70′s and 80′s. The 2000′s continued the trends of the 90′s, using the notes in different combinations yet toning down the sharpness of the prior decade.  The next trend?

Green? Tropicals? Amber? Woods? Incenses? Orientals and spices?

For now, there’s enough of a treasure-trove in my own collection to keep me occupied for quite some time, along with the occasional sample here or there. So rather than spending the year accumulating the collection I want, it’s a good time to enjoy the collection I already have.

Related Posts:

• Duty-Free fragrances: Buy at your own risk.
• Fragrances we’ve smelled lately…

Say goodbye to Japon Noir: You can cross another of the original Tom Ford Private Blend originals off your list and add it to the discontinued category. Japon Noir is officially retired, potentially another victim of slow sales rather than critical acclaim. The last releases are already in the retail channel and have become impossible to find. The approach of rapidly rotating fragrances in his Private Blend line makes this reviewer wonder what Ford’s point really is: is it to create classic fragrances, or simply ‘see what sells’?  In either case, Japon Noir while not memorable in and of itself was a great mixing and layering fragrance with other of his Private Blend line; so it remains to be seen what departs next now that the 2007 originals are quickly taking their final bows.

Bond No 9 Central Park West: March 15th will mark the introduction of Central Park West to the Bond Classic line, described more as a green floral fragrance as apropos of its namesake surroundings. This is reported to be among seven (7) releases that Bond will introduce for 2012, the others being among the Classic (a.k.a. neighborhood namesake) lines, a specialty fragrance, and between 3-4 new “I Love New York Scents”, including introductions for Fathers and Mothers’ Days, and supposedly one to celebrate the first anniversary of Gay Marriage Legalization in the State.

Guerlain Myrrhe et Delires: Guerlain announced in January that it is proceeding with the release of Myrrhe et Delires as an addition to their L’Art & L’Matiére line. Observant eyes may have spotted it in the US trunk show in late 2011, and a few have even sampled the combination. We won’t post any spoilers, so watch for its release in limited retail rotation (expect Neiman and Bergdorf’s and the Guerlain Boutiques to maintain exclusivity as they do now with the L’Art line).

Around the Web… Speaking of discontinued fragrances, our friends at Basenotes have given us a wonderful piece on other discontinued scents as well as the new Fragrances of the World book. Rather than suggest paying the $195 price tag for the book (unless you’re an extreme fume buff), we’ve provided a link to the list of recent discontinuations, which we feel is a great reference.

The piece also cites some of the additional L’Artisan discontinuations which includes (I can’t believe it either) Tea for Two. What on earth are they thinking?

Related Posts:

• Fragrances we’ve smelled lately…
• Welcome to Autumn: Fragrance Picks for 2011
• News Update: 9/26/11 21:30 EDT
• Best & Worst Fragrances of 2011
• Tom Ford Private Blend Oud Wood: Review

These are the scents I term “douche-worthy” – a term that implies any or all of the above: dead common, unimaginative, low quality, totally undistinguishable, formulaic, worn by every other person in the world and therefore makes no individual statement. The list of epithets could go on, but I’m sure people get the general idea. Most of these will be produced under the name of a noted designer to suggest that the fragrance as a chic and stylish quality, or so they’d like you to believe. Rarely do any of these ‘must-miss’ scents really stand up under any decent scrutiny, though few people would ever so admit.

So I’ve compiled a list of some of the current releases that I’ll put into my list of “extreme douchery”:

Chanel Allure. Chanel is generally considered the “safe bet” of the perfume industry. Buy a Chanel, and no one will really complain about your choice. Right? Well, not exactly. The safe bet tends to also be the most unimaginative choice you can make. So why is Allure doucheworthy? Lack of longevity — you would need to bathe in it for there to be any projection. Unimaginative — there’s nothing unique or original about its signature, it’s a simple, sharp, cold fragrance that smells as imaginative as an auto air freshener.  Common — it’s so popular that you’ll be original, just like everyone else.

Bleu de Chanel. Yet another 2010 release from Chanel.  One that smells like every other release, if it was 1999. A sharp, crisp, citrusy and cold fragrance that doesn’t quite have a signature of its own, much less a signature at all. It’s safe because it’s a Chanel. It’s also incredibly dull, sells exceptionally well on the pure strength of the promotional hype, and wins accolades for being…well, I can’t point to any reason why it should. Though if you want to smell like every other tool, this is one doucheworthy fragrance that is a must-have. For us, it’s a must-miss.

Gucci Guilty Pour Homme. How do we best describe this? Sour? Synthetic? The choice of every man who thinks they’re God’s gift to women? Off-putting? Basically, your average, modern-day fragrance…which implies one thing: Boring. Therefore? Total douchery.

Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme. Let’s see. Put together a marketing campaign using a commercial where someone recites the lyrics to Bryan Ferry’s “Slave to Love”. Badly. Ok, let’s not judge based on an ad campaign, so how does it smell? How bad could this be? Here’s a few adjectives I’ve seen used and with which I’d agree.  ”Cheap”. “Poor longevity”. “Unimpressive”. “Common”. “Lot’s of advertising and marketing, but there’s no real scent”. “Synthetic, feels like after-shave”. “Disaster in a bottle.” In short? Total douchery.

And some other noteworthy douche-worthy fragrance mentions include…

Bulgari Aqua Pour Homme. Just what the fragrance industry needed: another aquatic fragrance. This one? Seaweed. And citrus. So what does it smell like? Seaweed and citrus. Do we need to say it?

Dior Fahrenheit Aqua. Yes, this is the fragrance that Dior needed to create, and such a great marketing plan! Let’s pillage the legendary Fahrenheit name from a best-selling classic, apply it to a citrusy aquatic/light fragrance, and the result? Nothing like its namesake original. This has been described as either “trying to modernize the Mona Lisa” or like trying to make a light-fragrance out of something inherently deep at its core. Why?

Calvin Klein. Anything by Calvin Klein.  I’m sure this goes without saying, but we’ve had the CK One franchise (I’ve lost count of how many seemingly common fragrances that has spawned), CK Shock (the shock is how shocking bad some of them are), and at least a few more that have graced department store shelves with their presence. In fact, going back to Eternity and Obsession, I can no longer take their entire line seriously enough to consider it at all. And yes, I’ve smelled enough of this dreck on others to know that it’s all complete douchery. Fair warning that if you came to my site looking for a review of any CK fragrance, you’ll walk away empty handed. It’s just not worth the time to devote to something already so overhyped and off-the-chart common. Enough of the soap-box speech on this.

These are simply a few. As in the above, people reading this might think, “Isn’t this being elitist?” No, it isn’t. Rather, it’s having taste and discretion in what you choose to wear to make a personal statement. If someone simply is looking to make a statement that they smell inoffensive and just like everyone else, they’ll more than likely purchase this dreck based on its promotion and the heavy-handed in store hawking techniques used at most department stores. Walk into a Sephora, and the walls are floor to ceiling with testers of this bottled formulaic junk. That isn’t the appeal of a fragrance for me, and frankly it’s not very much fun.

It lacks individualism. I’ve already posted a review about Bleu de Chanel, since it had gotten some hype as a ‘breakthrough fragrance’. It’s like calling a Volvo a ‘sexy car’ — people purchase a Volvo because it’s safe, not because it’s irresistible to the opposite sex. I’ll be posting a review about Chanel Allure in the coming days — I’ve given away much of the plot above but not all of it in this posting.

But let me summarize. My personal goals in selecting a fragrance are to make a very personal statement about myself, as well as my own preferences, not to follow the crowd and be simply among the flock of sheep. I make that a point of my wardrobe as much as shoes or choice of tie. People walk by my office all the time, stop in, and make note of my selections (disclaimer, my fan points from behind my desk toward the door, and I’ve ask that people tell me if they’re bothered by it; none have been). I doubt highly that I’d see that sort of reception with most of the department store and mass-market selections these days.

Instead, that would just make me douche-worthy. Not a label I’d ever want to carry.

Related Posts:

• Bleu de Chanel (Review): Welcome to the party (like it’s 1999)
• Welcome to Autumn: Fragrance Picks for 2011
• News & Updates: 1/27/2012
• Gucci Guilty Intense Pour Homme (Review)
• News Updates: 10/14/11

Say it ain’t so…

Tom Ford Private Blend is seemingly retiring two fragrances: Bois Marocain (due more than likely to slow sales and low popularity — if you’ve smelled it, you’ll understand why) and Amber Absolute. For Amber Absolute (AA), the flacons are going if not already gone, and you’ll find it difficult to pick up any of the last few produced. The 50ml sizes are still available. For now. There’s no indication of whether that will continue or it will be removed entirely.

It’s an odd decision as Amber is a note now seeming to come into wider recognition. AA, however, was a bit of an odd duck since it was amber heavily laced with woods and incense.  The result? The feeling that you’ve entered a Catholic High Mass when the sillage releases. Ford seems to like his incenses, and there are plenty of very good amber fragrances available, but AA was unique and worth experiencing as a much different experiment with the notes.

Time will tell what replaces these selections, but the previous new entries were a big disappointment in our view. Let’s wait and see if he uses the opportunity to retune some of his prior fragrances for future return.

At least someone listened…

At the end of 2011, we lamented and lambasted Christian Dior’s marketing department for the decision to remove online ordering for their La Collection Privee line. Apparently, someone listened because a very recent check of their site revealed that the shopping cart has returned.

Now we’ve tried a few of these fragrances, and hopefully Dior has gotten their boutiques better educated about the line. In our view, Leather Oud and Ambre Nuit were both very good fragrances at a very reasonable price point for their quantity. Bois D’Argent was interesting though not spectacular, and Vetiver and Eau Noire were very good choices.  So was Patchouli Imperial.  Of the women’s line, Granville and Mitzah are both standouts, Cologne Royale, Milly-la-Foret weren’t necessarily exceptional though good, and New Look 1947 was one that my wife found she didn’t enjoy with the passing of time (it’s since been swapped).

You can find out more on each at http://www.dior.com.

Worst Perfume Marketing Copy. Ever.

Someone recently shared this little tidbit of ‘perfume marketing porn’, courtesy of Etat Libre d’Orange Secretions Magnifiques.

“Like blood, sweat, sperm, saliva, Sécrétions Magnifiques is as real as an olfactory coitus that sends one into raptures, to the pinnacle of sensual pleasure, that extraordinary and unique moment when desire triumphs over reason. Masculine tenseness frees a rush of adrenalin in a cascade of high-pitched aldehydic notes. The sensation of freshness is gripping. Then the fragrance reveals a metallic side, precise and as sharp as unappeased desire. We are on a razor-edge… skin and sweat mingle, and tastes of musk and sandalwood. The slightly salt marine effect stirs, arouses, and sets your mouth watering. Tongues and sexes find one another, pleasure explodes and all goes wild. Confusion reigns supreme. A subversive, disturbing perfume. It’s love or hate at first sight. Sensuous jousting is rarely satisfied with half-measures…In between Don Juan and the Woman who offers herself, arms are laid down…who will be the first to surrender?”

Blood, sweat, sperm, saliva, coitus?!? I feel dirty just from reading this. I have it on good authority that it smells like none of those, but the first sentence alone was off putting enough to remove all curiosity.  It does, however, contain adrenalin and blood accords.

Olfactory coitus indeed.

Related Posts:

• Welcome to Autumn: Fragrance Picks for 2011
• News Updates: 10/14/11
• Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute: High Mass, distilled.
• Best & Worst Fragrances of 2011
• Absolutely not what you’d expect as Fahrenheit.

I decided to take a trip down memory lane and visit a fragrance out of Bond No. 9′s first renditions that receives very little attention despite being very worthy. Great Jones is a woody aromatic scent that is simple yet still interesting in its overall composition. Released in 2003, it was also among the first fragrances that Bond commissioned, so it’s also among the first fragrances in the line that people tend to forget. To that end, acquiring samples and even a bottle through my usual channels (Saks Fifth Avenue) proved a little challenging, which is unfortunate but typical for the cycle.

Bond No. 9 Great Jones (2003)

Bond No. 9 Great Jones (2003): As part of the original line, along with scents such as West Broadway and Madison Soiree, Great Jones seems destined to be only an unfortunate footnote and difficult to find other than in Bond’s own boutiques. Unfortunate since it’s a well-composed yet very elemental scent, much like the other two mentions above — it relies on 3 or 4 major notes to achieve its impact.

In Great Jones’ case, it’s orange, cedar and oakmoss. Ergo, it’s a somewhat linear EDP that exudes a simply woody and citrus projection, augmented by the undertone of oakmoss.  It remains masculine, not exceptionally sweet (even with the citrus opening), and altogether refreshing with what seems to be the right amount of depth for a year-round scent. The elements aren’t cloying, and provide a moderate projection with terrific sillage. I dare say that it’s youthful, and the broader appeal of the scent is an alternative to the 20-somethings that are tired of overly-sharp/overly-sweet/overly-aquatic fragrances that are otherwise common.

Longevity is excellent, and lasted for an entire day on skin without fading. Transformation away from the initial orange blast happens within the first 2 hours, by which time it does dry-down into a more elemental cedar/oakmoss combination that becomes comfortable for both a casual wear and potentially formal enough for a business setting. I’ll stop short of saying this is ‘romantic’ in nature, as it truly isn’t. Unless the woman you’re seeking to please has a fetish for cedar chests and shoe trees, this is probably not going to make an impression other than being a unique and very fresh though not ‘light’ fragrance. That said, it might just prove to be attractive to a significant other since it’s a bit out of the ordinary and lacks the fresh sharpness that tends to be somewhat pungent.  Great Jones does make a statement, and a very nice one at that.

Rating: 4/5.  Recommended. Great Jones is one of those unique treasures that people forget to try because of the clamor and marketing of other and newer products, and it’s unfortunate as it relegates very good fragrances to a relative obscurity in the line. In an earlier review, I made similar mention of West Broadway. Either it was purely luck or extensive sampling that got me to notice Great Jones — I honestly forget which — and I’m happy I did. This is simply a nice, versatile, and very clean fragrance that maintains a youthful profile and appeal, even if it’s been missed by recent marketing.

Bottom-Line: A great woody and green scent that plays very well on the skin, has great durability, very classic yet rugged. A great fragrance to add to your wish list, and hopefully it isn’t as quickly forgotten.

Related Posts:

• Guerlain Habit Rouge (Review): Timeless or past its prime?
• Guerlain Heritage (Review): A classic will always be a classic.
• Review of Montale Aoud Cuir d’Arabie
• Bond No. 9 New York Oud: Review
• Bond No. 9 Brooklyn: Review

Since we started the new year on a very pronounced ‘leather’ note, it made sense to continue the theme with another leather-based fragrance: Cuir Ottoman from Parfum d’Empire. Parfum d’Empire is a niche fragrance house, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato is the house nose and creator for this scent as well.  The leaning of this fragrance, according to their scent profile, is unisex; however, your mileage may vary and most will find this a very deep, smoky, animalic scent that relies heavily on an incense/leather/benzoin base to achieve its result. In our view, this is much more masculine than feminine, and that statement isn’t one taken lightly or meant to infer that any feminine scent should be flowery or light.

Before we spoil the plot much further, let’s dive into the overall review:

Parfum d’Empire Cuir Ottoman (2006): This scent is intended to invoke a sense of the Ottoman Empire in the use of leather, incense, and deep florals to achieve a rugged and masculine-profiled outcome. An Egyptian Jasmine and Iris begin the composition, and are somewhat green, deep, and only mildly floral against this backdrop. Almost immediately, the leather and incense notes in the heart of the composition take over and remain throughout. The result is a nice yet smoldering leather scent that presents a rugged sophistication, tempered and bridled but clearly the focus of the fragrance. The base begins to drift in after some time, and here is where the effects of the benzoin and a very nice Tolu Balsam round out the experience.  Both serve to enhance the effect of the leather without upstaging it, and the blending works quite well.

This is a fragrance best approached carefully with a mindset of a very pronounced leather, surrounded in the smoke of a soft wood and nicely polished by a resiny effect, so the finish is best described as somewhat “tarry” though not unpleasantly so.

As we mentioned earlier, we don’t agree with this being a feminine scent, but that’s a decision best made personally. While with Aoud Cuir d’Arabie we were decidedly leaning toward a masculine profile, this is somewhat less specific.

Sillage and projection are average to good for an Eau de Parfum concentration, longevity is excellent. We found this to have at least a 12 to 14 hour durability, give or take depending on the wearer and skin type. Cuir Ottoman is a near perfect execution of a fall/winter experience and best used in those seasons. Pricing is typical to slightly below average for a niche fragrance — we found it for around $140-150 for a 100ml bottle, around $90 for a 50ml, both quite reasonable for a scent of high quality. There was no synthetic effect within this at all, and good balance in the composition. It holds well to the skin without being heavy or cloying, which is an accomplishment with the notes chosen.

Parfum d’Empire is a niche house about which we hear very little. We’ve thus far had the pleasure of sampling/purchasing three of their 13 products and look forward to experiencing more. There is little we would suggest changing in the composition, other than a bit of animalic and musky flair in the opening.  The combination of the two floral notes at the top is slightly — and we mean very slightly — earthy, but dissipates within five minutes. It’s not much of a negative note in the overall experience, though it may be slightly off-putting to some.

The verdict?

Rating: 4.5/5.  Highly recommended. This is a well-developed, well-conceived, and very well-executed fragrance that strikes the right balance without sacrificing a decidedly assertive profile. We were very excited to try this, and added it to my permanent collection.

Bottom-line: For someone seeking a leather fragrance of high quality, unadulterated, and truly representative of the note, this is an excellent choice. It more than adequately occupies a niche away from other scents such as Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather or Montale’s Aoud Cuir d’Arabie, yet it isn’t a soft presentation like Christian Dior’s Leather Oud. Cuir Ottoman maintains a very respectable price-point that does not exploit a niche status, but rather makes it accessible. While it’s not easy to locate (MinNY is one of a few retailers), it’s very much worth the search.

Related Posts:

• Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe: Review
• Review of Montale Aoud Cuir d’Arabie
• Byredo Accord Oud (Review)
• Midnight in Paris (Review) – Van Cleef & Arpels
• Le Labo Vetiver 46 (Review): If perfume were art…

Montale is not an ages-old perfumer, having been around only since 2003, but it has amassed a reputation for producing very high quality scents during that period. While crtitics may choose to identify much of their product as “derivative”, there’s not much dispute that they have quickly become the de facto reference standard for any Oud-based fragrance. Their work in the manufacture of and development of fragrances around this element stands alone among peers who may have one or two scents based on Agarwood. Montale?

Twenty-seven.

Yes, you read that correctly. 27 different fragrance variations centered around that central note. When you consider that all of them have been developed and marketed only in the last nine years, that’s an even tougher act to follow. It’s a very aggressive schedule. Montale has also mastered the notion of fragrance storage by decanting all of his scents in an aluminum container to keep out light and heat. Clever and effective, as well as an interesting marketing strategy.

With a line-up of 27 different variations on Oud, some are bound to be stand-outs while others will simply be derivative and others puzzling. On more than one occasion, people smelling a Montale have asked the question of “where is the Oud” in one of his Oud-named scents, as often it can seem to be simply a side-note. More on that in a future review. Given the new-found popularity of Oud, it has tended to become in many cases a very unisex or universal note, not given completely to either a traditionally male or female olfactory profile; for most of Montale’s fragrance line, this is equally the case with specific exceptions.

For this review, I’ve chosen the most masculine of Montale’s Aoud line: Cuir D’Arabie.

Montale Aoud Cuir d’Arabie (~2009):  To understand Cuir d’Arabie is to understand the power behind each of the elements, all of which are unbridled in this composition. Tobacco, Oud, Birch, with the subtle accompanyment of leather throughout. This is not for the faint of heart, as it is deep, strong, and captivating. It is a very linear composition that both builds and mellows from the sharpness at opening to a more subtle and defined leather. Cuir d’Arabie is a powerful and masculine statement: The leather from a tack room juxtaposed against a very raw yet pure tobacco, a rich birch, and the very unqiue scent of Oud.

It is the ‘bad boy’ of fragrances, as it makes a very potent impression on both the wearer and anyone within the reach of it’s boldly and unapologetic sillage. It’s spicy and animalic, it carries a very raw attraction that could be interpreted as very off-putting, or — in most cases — very rugged and sensual.

This is also one of the few fragrances from which people have literally stood downwind from me and commented on how incredible the room smells. I must say that it is not for the faint of heart. Longevity in its EDP form is full-day — meaning from 5AM through to the same time the next day. It’s a scent that can be quickly overdone, so potential wearers should simply spray or apply at pulse points; the scent will do the rest very well.

All of this said, this is not a fragrance long on formalities or subtlety. Imagine, if you will, Tom Ford Tuscan Leather (for those familiar). Take that feeling and multiply is exponentially. That will give you some idea of the type of scent Cuir d’Arabie represents. Wearers will fall into one of a few camps:

• They’ll like it.
• They’ll LOVE it.
• They’ll be intrigued or captivated by it.
• They’ll run scared from it.

This review obviously isn’t skewed toward the last audience.

Rating:  4.75/5. Highly recommended with caveats. This is NOT a blind-buy. It’s also not widely available, so my best advice is to order a sample decant from LuckyScent or The Perfumed Court, try it, and decide whether this is a fragrance that you feel suits your tastes and skin chemistry. This is strong enough, even in EDP, for even dry skin types to not completely absorb the scent. It is also decidedly masculine. Given some of the current androgyny in fragrances, this is not a scent that easily translates to a feminine profile.

Bottom-line: You’re seeking a single fragrance that captures the essence of Oud, creates a bold statement, has a unique character, is masculine, rugged, and will likely evoke a reaction. Aoud Cuir d’Arabie is that fragrance. It’s not easily found, but is it ever worth the search.

Related Posts:

• Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe: Review
• Le Labo Oud 27 (Review)
• Byredo Accord Oud (Review)
• La Collection Privee Dior Leather Oud (Review): Could this be a daily wearer?
• Bond No. 9 Great Jones: Review

Worst waste of money: Creed Royal Service. While it’s nice, even the description for the composition’s notes make it sound like the Frankenstein’s Monster of fragrance, and at a price of over $1,750 for a 200 ml atomizer, it challenges Clive Christian’s No. 1 as the most expensive perfume in the world. Pity that it lacks that certain ‘oomph’.

Worst Longevity in a fragrance: Hermès Hermessence Santal Massoia. Jean-Claude Ellena has outdone himself with another linear, weak EDT composition within a very boutique line. Santal Massoia in the 100 ml sizing runs at $235 but delivers both a linear and fleeting experience. If you’re a fan of Ellena, try it, but this isn’t one we’d recommend for purchase.

Worst Mass-Market appeal fragrance: Nicole Polizzi Snooki. Do we really need to say much here? Ok, fine then. First, it began selling on the Home Shopping Channel, then made it up the chain to Perfumania (sounds like the department stores won’t touch it with a barge pole), it’s a nearly exact copy of Britney Spears’ “Fantasy”, and aside from the notes being a case of ‘guidette gourmand’ — seriously…sugar, kiwi, lychee and ‘cupcake accord’? – it comes with a plastic leopard-print tote bag. At around $40, I’m sure the tote bag isn’t the only thing synthetic in this train wreck.

Worst attempt at marketing: Dior’s La Collection Privee Christian Dior. Aside from removing the web-ordering options from the Dior site, they attempt to refer you to a retailer; this, in turn, sends you to a long list of retailers who will never carry the line because Dior has restricted it to only specific Dior Boutiques. And it gets worse. The SA’s in the women’s boutique haven’t a clue about any fragrance in the collection, there are no samples granted, and they struggle with how they’ll sell a bottle. Brilliant fragrances, fantastic price point and value, totally inept marketing execution.

Most Intriguing Fragrance: Bacon Classic & Bacon Gold. Forget notes of ambrette, jasmine, patchouli or musk. Let’s just get straight to the point without messing around. Both fragrances have a heart/base of bacon, so it’s simply truth in advertising. Clever augmented by vetivers, citruses and woods, it’s just enough without being over the top. And who doesn’t love bacon?

Best Department Store Release (Women): Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial. It’s an accessible adaptation of Shalimar for a generation who thinks the original is over-cloying. Rarely does tinkering with an iconic original yield a positive result, but this succeeds on a variety of levels.

Best Department Store Release (Men): Dior Homme Intense. Technically, this is a re-release and reformulation of the original, but the outcome is positive. It’s the right level of depth and sophistication without being common. One of our runner-up choices was Marc Jacobs Bang, but after some wearing, we felt it lacked the right sophistication and the outcome felt very close to Terre D’Hermès to merit further distinction.

Best Limited Edition: Creed Feuille Verte. Only 350 were released, and those exclusively to the US market, but this alone didn’t seal the deal for us. This is honestly a Creed that we found to be exceptionally crafted, unique, and sophisticated. Royal Service would qualify in this category, but frankly was not exceptional.

Best Intepretation of a note: Santal 33 by Le Labo. Santal 33 struck us as an astounding fragrance that brought Sandalwood to a very fore-front level, something that isn’t necessarily easy since the element is generally used more as a heart or basenote. Le Labo’s augmentation of the note takes nothing away from that element, but imbues it with a new sense of character. A very creative effort.

Best Fragrance: This was a challenge as the scents in the running included an Amber that promises to be today’s Oud Wood, some fragrances that were released in limited run in 2010 but only became available in 2011, and more than several prior releases that perhaps haven’t gotten the rich credit they deserve.

Here were some of the entries:

• Hermes Un Jardin Sur le Toit
• Bond No. 9 New York Amber
• Dior La Collection Privee Leather Oud
• Creed Feuille Verte
• Bond No. 9 New York Oud
• Tom Ford Private Blend Jasmine Rouge
• By Kilian Incense Oud
• Le Labo Santal 33
• Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire 2

Clearly, the choices were all over the map from florals to ambers to woods, with leather and green thrown in for measure. The list was a testament to both the niche and upscale-retail fragrance segments that there has been so much to select, and others will also have their own takes on the selections we’ve made and perhaps have suggested even more. So here is how we decided on criteria:

• Creative/innovative use of elements
• Overall Quality
• General appeal
• Projection, longevity and sillage
• Impact
• Relevance

Honorable Mentions: The Honorable Mentions went to the following:

• Hermès Un Jardin Sur le Toit
• Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire 2
• By Kilian Incense Oud

Runners Up:  The runners-up included the following:

• Le Labo Santal 33
• Creed Feuille Verte

The Winner: The outcome was strong tie between the two Bond fragrances: New York Amber and New York Oud. Both in our view offered a very creative and innovative use of the core components, both ranked high in terms of interest, overall quality, and the longevity/projection/sillage aspects.  Both provided a high degree of impact by virtue of their composition. Both were relevant in different ways:

• New York Amber sought — and perhaps succeeded — in taking an Amber fragrance to another level, potentially making the ingredient the next focal ingredient for others to follow.
• New York Oud succeeded in creating a very intriguing Oud fragrance laced with a variety of ingredients (notably, Rose) that made a fantastic impact and bold statement.

Both had the X-factor that distanced them from other scents, both had the capacity to command attention. We found it equally as difficult to suggest either had more of a creative edge than the other. In the final outcome, it was simply a match of equals: We would easily recommend either. There was only one differentiating factor, and that was that New York Amber was a repackaging and slight reformulation of Harrods Amber at a higher concentration.

Bond No. 9 New York Oud

The winner was Bond No. 9 New York Oud. Again, both perfumes were outstanding, but the Oud was truly the original and not otherwise a reformulation; that doesn’t mean that we don’t recommend the New York Amber (far from it), and would encourage others to give our earlier reviews a read, and try a test.

Best wishes for a Happy and Prosperous 2012!

Related Posts:

• Welcome to Autumn: Fragrance Picks for 2011
• Bond No. 9 New York Amber (Review)
• News & Updates (updated 9/18/11 17:15)
• Le Labo Santal 33: Review
• Creed Royal Service: Review & First Impressions